Winter Car Storage: How to Lay a Car Up Properly

Start with a clean, bone-dry car

Never store a dirty car. Bird droppings, tree sap and road salt keep eating into paint all winter, and trapped grit grinds against the paintwork every time a cover moves. Wash thoroughly, including the arches and underside if you've driven on salted roads, and let the car dry completely — ideally with a final drive to get heat into the brakes and exhaust so nothing is put away damp.

A coat of wax or sealant before storage gives the paint an extra barrier for the months when you won't be looking at it.

Fluids, fuel and the battery

Fill the fuel tank to the brim — a full tank leaves no room for condensation to form on the tank walls. Fresh oil before storage is better than old: used oil holds combustion acids that sit on engine internals all winter.

Batteries self-discharge, and a deeply discharged battery in a cold garage is often beyond saving by March. Either disconnect it, or better, leave it on a smart conditioner/trickle charger designed for long-term connection.

• ✓Brim the fuel tank to prevent condensation
• ✓Change the oil if it's due — acids in old oil corrode from the inside
• ✓Check antifreeze concentration before the first frost
• ✓Use a smart trickle charger, not a basic one, for months-long connection

Tyres, brakes and moving parts

Tyres develop flat spots when a car sits in one position for months. Over-inflate by around 10 PSI for storage (note it somewhere you'll see in spring), or roll the car half a wheel-turn every few weeks. For long lay-ups, axle stands take the weight off entirely.

Leave the handbrake off — pads and shoes can seize to discs and drums over a damp winter. Chock the wheels instead, and leave the car in gear (manual) or park (automatic).

Control the moisture, not just the temperature

A sealed, unheated garage traps humid air, and every cold night pulls that moisture out of the air onto the coldest surfaces — usually your car's steel. Ventilation matters more than warmth. Crack a window slightly, leave a door vent open, or run a small dehumidifier if power allows.

Inside the car, moisture absorbers on the floor and a slightly opened window (in a secure garage) stop the cabin going musty. Feeding a door seal with rubber protectant stops it sticking and tearing on first opening.

The right cover for winter storage

This is where most lay-ups go wrong. A plastic tarpaulin or cheap universal cover traps condensation against the paint and shifts in draughts, micro-scratching the finish it's meant to protect. What a stored car needs is a breathable, tailored cover: it lets moisture escape while keeping dust, grit and light off the car, and a tailored fit means it can't billow or rub.

Our Gungnir cover is designed specifically for long-term winter storage, with a double-layer construction for use below 21°C. For heated or well-ventilated garages housing something special, the fleece-lined Freya adds a soft-touch layer against the paint. Both are made to your car's exact pattern.

The spring wake-up

Before first start: check under the car for leaks and evidence of rodents, restore tyre pressures, reconnect the battery, and turn the engine over. Let it idle to full temperature before driving, brake gently for the first few miles while surface rust clears from the discs, and book the MOT before you need it.